I wanted to do this for a while and finally got the patience to do it. It took 6+ hours of sanding by hand and here is the result:
As you can see the chip somehow survived. I took a screen shot in the morning and I was in a rush. My temperature before this procedure was 75-80 with both the cooler and the IHS lapped. After it will not go above 56 at 3.2 Ghz and that is with an additional +.1 to the vcore on top of the minimal needed to run 3.2 stable. this is with 1.375 at full load and I need 1.275 for that speed to be stable. I want a Solid 3.6 GHZ out of this. The Q6600 I have has a vid of 1.2875 are reported by coretemp and the cooler I'm using is the Tuniq. By the way a lot of people seem to think that the core and the IHS are soldered and this is simply not true. They use some hind of very strong silver adhesive that is no fully solid. No matter how good of a cooling system someone has, if the IHS does not have good contact between the die and the bottom of the IHS the temps will not be the best they can be. I did this ot get the most out of my gear.
I used 100 grit wet-dry and I was lapping without water because water killed the sand paper way to early. You have to completely shave off the top part of the IHS and this will take 6+ hours. If you rub too fast it will get very hot so when it starts to heat up pause and continue. after you the the whole top of proceed with caution. When i was doing it one part of the IHS was taller than the other so i almost panicked and gave up. you can pretty much see it in the first picture that it was not leveled. Keep going with a 400 grit until all the silver paste is gone and the cpu looks roughly like the second picture. then finish it off with 800 and stop. This is not a beauty pageant so there will be scratches on the silicone. they look deep but they are nothing to worry about. The goal is to have the dies leveled with the outer part of the partly decapitated IHS so whatever will be rolling your monster will not crush them into tiny bits. You have to carefully remove the cpu clamp from the motherboard. You cannot use a pushpin cooler. In my case since 2MM disappeared from the CPU my cooler was not holding it very tight so I used washers beetween the spring and the mounting plate to give it some extra hold. I picked it up by the cooler and it was fine, I also rotated the motherboard in the air by the cooler and it did not budge. I even picked it up by the cooler while the power is on to make sure there is good contact. There will very little clearance between the the cpu socket and the bottom of the cooler after this so make sure you do not shave off more than absolutely necessary. Make sure your cooler is completely flat at the base. Proceed with caution. I will follow this up with some pics later.
How to clean it: I used the arctic clean solution. Fill a small glass to a point where the cpu is submerged and dip the cpu and then use a toothbrush to make sure all that copper dust/paste is off of everything u can let the cpu soak in it but do not leave it there for more than 5 minutes. do not use a plastic or Styrofoam cup because the arctic clean will dissolve it and it will not be cool. After step 1 use the step 2 bottle and dunk it in, wait and wipe off. Use a hairdryer to completely dry and enjoy.
Comunque sospetto anche io che il contatto fra cores e his non sia sempre ottimale...ma la trovo un'operazione troppo rischiosa da fare...anche se molto utile per un daily
certo che questo ha scelto il metodo più rischioso di tutti, lappare finchè non sono spuntati i core, per me sarebbe meglio smontare l'his, tagliarlo se si vuole tenere per un buon fissaggio alla mobo e poi rimontarlo
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ora sono a 3000 con dissy stock e sotto prime non supero i 56° 
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